The Build......

Hi Guys and Girls

I received my cr on Friday and started the build.....

I received my kit in a jiffy bag which inside had the chassis and parts all individually bagged. The only problem with the kit is the lack of instructions some bits might get confusing for some. BUT This blog will take you though a step by step guide to building.

Ok here is everything you should get in the kit:


The main chassis, front braces are made out of carbon fibre and the side pods made out of csc ( For those of you that don't know what that is, it is similar to carbon fibre it has a thin layer of carbon fibre then layers of fibreglass then another layer of carbon fibre)

The chassis....


So lets crack on with the build I started by attaching the side pods to the main chassis. Opening the side pod bag you should find 4 screws and 4 nuts along with 4 parts of the side pods. As pictured below....


I started by getting one of the screws are pushing it though the middle screw as shown in the below picture then pushing one of the "solid" (outside parts on the above picture) over the screw...

Next place the second part on top this time the one with the center hollowed out.....



Finish by putting the nut on the screw and installing the second screw in the rear hole as shown below....


Then do the same to the other side....


My next step was to attach the front end this has to be done before the front braces can be installed. Do this buy simply mounting it buy putting two countersunk screws in the front two mounting holes.....


The next logical step from here is to attach the front braces. In this bag you should have 6 curved strips of carbon fibre 2 short ones, 2 medium length ones, 2 long ones as well as 6 screws and 6 nuts.

Firstly i pushed one of the screws though the center mounting hole then placed one of the short parts on to the screw. Making sure that it lined up with the side pods and the front nose cone as so.....


After this you should place one of the medium length strips on top of the screw lining it up with the first piece....


on top of this piece you should put the longest strip lining it up with the others. This one should sit over the rear mounting hole of the front nose cone.....


Next place the nut on and push another screw though the rear hole of the front braces and secure nut. When coming to putting the screw though the chassis, though the front nose cone then finally the front hole of the front braces. IMO you have two choices you can either drill the hole out to 3mm then just push the screw though and put the nut on the top. Or you can do as i did wind the screw though the cone cone until it was tight then just tighten the nut on the top. You should end up with something that looks like this....



Then repeat the above steps but on the other side....


I thought this point would be good point to install my new savox servo!!! This is a very simple task pretty much self explanatory...


The front of the car is now complete. I now moved on to the battery compartment so to speak. In this bag these should be the following.....

Now the problem i experienced here was how to hold the battery post while tightening the screw tight. So i did the following.....

1. Get a spare screw preferably a cap head screw and wind it in one end of the post and tighten it as much as you can buy hand....


2. Get one of the short countersunk screw place it though one of the outside holes on the carbon fibre strip. Put a small drop of thread lock or lock tight on the screw.

3. Tighten up as usual then when you need to tighten it up "TIGHT" put the right size allen drivers in each screw and twist in opposite directions in a tightening action.


4. Once tight let the thread lock set for a while then you should be able to remove the unneeded cap screw with ease.

Then repeat the last few steps for the second post.....


The last step is to simply push the last two long screws though the correct holes in the chassis then push the battery post assembly on to them then and secure the two nuts on the top.....



We are now on the final bag. This includes the rear T plate, Rear hinge pin brace and shock tower spacer.

First step is to attach the T plate. This is held in place by both the front of the gear box casing and the rear battery posts...


Simply line the part up with rear battery post mounting holes and the front mounting holes of the gearbox casing on the chassis....


To fit the rear battery posts you can use the same method as i used on the front....


The next step i made was to fit the rear hinge pin brace to the rear wishbones. This involves pulling out the rear hinge removing the standard brace and fitting the new brace to the rear of the wishbones as so...

In this bag you will find a small carbon fibre spacer this should fit under the bottom hole of the rear shock tower....

At this point it is a simple task of bolting the rear shock tower and rear pivot black on as below....


You should now have something that looks like this i am yet to attach my gear box i will update you once I've done this....


Good luck with your build lots more to still come from my blog so remember to check back.

Ashley

The Rear End

Hi Again Guys

This evening i stripped the rear end of my cr and prepared it for the conversion.

I started with a new rear shock tower and i used a dremmel cutting disk and sanding drum to remove the front mounting holes on the rear tower than sanded flat...


There is very little modification required to the rear end for the cr2 conversion. Simply Move the wing mounts to the opposite side than normal and mount the shocks on the rear of the wishbone. Here's one i made earlier......




Hopefully my conversion will arrive tommorow which will mean the real build can comence.

The Front End.....

Hi again guys

In this post ill show you how ive built the front end of my cr2 ready to bolt on to the chassis.....

The std xxx cr nose cone is designed for the standard chassis to mount to it. As the CR2 has a carbon fibre chassis you require an alternative. This come in the form of the xxx-nt nose cone this comes in either plastic or graphite. I personally went for the plastic version this was for two reason's. 1. The plastic is black so matches the EA3 of the CR 2. Im a bit stingy at times and its cheaper than the graphite version. Part Number: Plastic LOSA4160, Graphite LOSA9714.

Ive decided to build this car with as many new parts as possible. I stripped the front of my cr and cleaned all of it. I havent taken any pictures of all the parts, but i have taken pictures of the build so dont worry......

Helpful Tip: Some of you may know this i always recomend you tap all the threads in losi parts before installation.

Time to begin. The first thing i did was to install the steering assembly to the xxxnt nose cone as you would on the std cr....
Next i rebuilt the top plate of the nose cone as per normal. I am currently still waiting on my AC front tower so ive built it with the losi carbon fibre one for now but ill replace it at a later date. Then attach the top plate to the bottom part of the assembly....


Alot of people recomend using a brass bulkhead personally as not a very good driver i find i clip things often and using a brass bulkhead IMO would increase breakages of the front wishbones. So instead i got some sheet lead and bent it into a sape where i could fit as much as possible into the front bulkhead as pictured below....



After this it is a simple procedure of replacing the front suspension as per normal....





So there is the front end ready to bolt on. More to come soon.....

Gathering Electrics.......

My cr2 conversion is yet to arrive. I know JC is having some difficulty with the ariel holders at the moment but I'm sure its worth the wait.

Now while i was waiting i decided a wise move would be to collect all the bits i need together. I didnt previously own a Saddle Pack Lipo so I bought a IP4200 Saddle Pack. I also Purchased a Second hand losi Xcellorin S so i could utilise its reverse rotation feature. Finally i purchased a Savox 1251MG low Profile servo. The CR2 requires aftermarket servo posts. AC recomends you use AE servo posts, I have personally bought a pair of trinity blue alloy servo posts which add that blue bling factor to the car.



Savox 1251MG:

I was told by a friend of mine Tony Parr that with a STD size servo the electronics installation could be a little tight but was do able. Previously in my std CR i had run a old KO PROPO 712 FET servo. I was getting tired of soldering the 7.2v FET wire and was getting a little old. So I decided to purchase a new low profile servo. Ive always been a fan of KO servo's and had always run them in my cars but when i was looking at low profile servo's they where rather pricey much more than what i wanted to pay. After searching about for a second hand item i was recomended to try a savox servo. I had heard about them and heard they where good but ide never really looked into them at great depth. After a little investigation I looked into the specs and people's opinions on them and decided to take the plunge and ordered a SC-1251 From DMS Racing for around £44. When it arriveed i was impressed with the quality good quality tough looking case and nice smooth action. Only Fault i can find with the servo is the length of the wire being rather long. Longer than most cars need.


More to Come soon.........

Cr2 Build

Hi Guys

Im starting this blog to show you my cr2 build. Ill take photo's of each step of my conversion. I hope someone will find it useful.

Ash